The host’s guide
İrfan’s Bodrum
Free recommendations, directions and small tips. Whenever you have a question, just send him a WhatsApp message.
The quickest way to get to know a place is to ask someone who lives there. İrfan gives his guests local guidance free of charge: which cove is sheltered from the wind today, where to watch the sunset, where to eat fish, where to catch the minibus. Message him on WhatsApp any time during your stay. He usually replies within the hour.
The map and lists below are the places he recommends most. Tap a point to read his short note.
Map
The peninsula, through İrfan’s eyes
Beaches, places to eat, villages, markets, sunset spots and transport. Filter by category.
Sea
Beaches and coves
From Kadıkalesi on the doorstep to the bay at Gümüşlük, where you wade across to Rabbit Island.
Gümüşlük beach
The village beach, on a calm, shallow bay. After a swim, the waterfront cafés and restaurants are a few minutes’ walk away.
İrfan’s tipCome early in the morning, when the water is glassy and the bay hasn’t woken up yet.
DirectionsKadıkalesi beach and jetty
A narrow strip of sand and shingle about 500 metres’ walk from our homes, with a wooden swimming jetty, eucalyptus trees and cafés along the shore. One of the windier coasts on the peninsula, popular with windsurfers.
İrfan’s tipThe end of the jetty for a morning swim, and the same spot again for sunset: both are my favourites.
DirectionsAkyarlar
A quiet village with a small fishing harbour at the southern tip of the peninsula. Its coast is known for wind sports.
İrfan’s tipWhen Kadıkalesi is windy the south coast is sometimes more sheltered, so ask me about the wind before you set off.
DirectionsKaraincir
A shallow bay of fine sand between Akyarlar and Aspat, much loved by families with children.
İrfan’s tipWith little ones, go in the morning, when the water is calm and there is still shade before noon.
DirectionsAspat Bay
A wide, quiet bay with the remains of an old fortress on the hill above. A good choice for a swim away from the crowds.
İrfan’s tipA short climb up the hill gives the best view of the bay and the islands; take water and a hat.
DirectionsOrtakent Yahşi beach
One of the longest sandy beaches on the peninsula, with plenty of room to walk the shoreline and swim.
İrfan’s tipOut of season, a walk along the sand makes a lovely stop on the way to Bodrum.
DirectionsFood
Where to eat
Fish and meze at tables on the sand, a village breakfast, a glass in the evening.
Gümüşlük waterfront fish restaurants
Along the bay, fish and meze restaurants set their tables on the sand, a few steps from the water. As a protected archaeological zone, the shore has kept its low-rise village character.
İrfan’s tipChoose your fish at the counter rather than from the menu, and in summer always book a table for sunset.
DirectionsHistory and villages
Old stones, quiet lanes
Ancient Myndos, the stone quarry at Koyunbaba, the hillside village of Karakaya and Bodrum’s castle.
Rabbit Island and Myndos
The remains of ancient Myndos are scattered around the bay and across Tavşan Adası. On calm days you can wade over from the beach along an old submerged path, the water about knee-deep.
İrfan’s tipThe island is an archaeological site and access is sometimes restricted, so message me before you go and I’ll tell you how things stand that week.
DirectionsAncient Stone Quarry, Koyunbaba
A quarry some 2,500 years old at Koyunbaba, said to have supplied stone for the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus. In summer it is the main stage of the International Gümüşlük Music Festival.
İrfan’s tipThe festival runs from mid-July to early September, so book early for an evening concert among the stones.
DirectionsKarakaya village
An old village of stone houses and narrow lanes on the hillside above Gümüşlük. From up here the bay, the islands and the open sea fit into a single frame.
İrfan’s tipLeave the car at the edge of the village, walk in and watch the sunset from up here, with a light layer for later.
DirectionsKadıkalesi Greek church
The ruin of a 19th-century Greek Orthodox church in the village. Only the walls still stand, but it is the loveliest trace of the village’s past.
İrfan’s tipIt is a two-minute detour on the way to the beach, and the late-afternoon light suits those stone walls beautifully.
DirectionsBodrum Castle
Begun by the Knights of St John in 1402, the castle now houses the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.
İrfan’s tipGo in winter, when the courtyards are almost empty and you can look out over the harbour from the walls for as long as you like.
DirectionsMausoleum of Halicarnassus
The site of the monumental tomb counted among the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Only foundations and scattered stones remain, but the weight of the place is still felt.
İrfan’s tipPair it with the ancient quarry at Koyunbaba, which is said to have supplied some of the stone.
DirectionsSunset
Where to end the day
The best hour on the west coast. A few of İrfan’s favourite viewpoints.
Kadıkalesi–Turgutreis path
A walking and cycling path linking the two coastal villages, with coffee stops, swimming jetties and wide views of the sea along the way.
İrfan’s tipWalk to the market on a Saturday morning and bring the heavy bags home on the dolmuş.
DirectionsTurgutreis sunset shore
The long beach and seafront promenade of Turgutreis are known for their sunsets, with the sun sinking behind the islands offshore.
İrfan’s tipWalk to the northern end of the promenade, towards the fishermen’s harbour, where the crowd thins out.
DirectionsBodrum windmills
Old stone windmills on the ridge between Bodrum and Gümbet, with Bodrum harbour on one side and Gümbet bay on the other. On clear days you can see Kos.
İrfan’s tipWalk up the hill from the harbour and wait for sunset here, with a windbreaker.
DirectionsEveryday
Markets and errands
The Saturday market, supermarkets, a bakery, a pharmacy. Useful for longer stays.
Turgutreis Saturday market
One of the best-known markets on the peninsula, held every Saturday in the centre of town. Seasonal fruit and vegetables, village cheese, olives, herbs and, in winter, crates of mandarins.
İrfan’s tipGo early with a cloth bag and some cash, and ask me which stall to buy olive oil from.
DirectionsTurgutreis town centre
A working town all year round, with supermarkets, bakeries, pharmacies, banks and cafés along the seafront. The nearest centre to our homes for everyday needs.
İrfan’s tipEverything stays open in winter, so for a long stay this is the easiest place for the weekly shop.
DirectionsYalıkavak: marina and market
A town on the north coast known for its large yacht marina and old windmills. Its weekly market of clothes and household goods is held on Thursdays.
İrfan’s tipHave a coffee at the marina after the Thursday market, and ask me which day the fruit and vegetable market is on that season.
DirectionsTransport
Getting around
Minibus stops, the bus station and airport connections.
Kadıkalesi dolmuş route
The municipal minibus stop is about 100 metres from our homes. Via Turgutreis you can reach Gümüşlük, Bodrum and the rest of the peninsula without a car.
İrfan’s tipThe minibuses take contactless bank cards or a Bodrum travel card, and it’s worth asking me the time of the last one before you head out.
DirectionsTurgutreis Marina
A large yacht marina lined with cafés, restaurants and shops. Ferries also run from here to the Greek island of Kos.
İrfan’s tipFor a day trip to Kos, check your passport and the seasonal ferry times well ahead.
DirectionsBodrum port (Kos ferry)
Bodrum’s passenger port, with regular ferries to the island of Kos and gulets setting off on blue cruises.
İrfan’s tipCheck which pier your Kos ticket names and be at the port at least an hour before departure.
DirectionsMilas–Bodrum Airport (BJV)
About 55 km from Kadıkalesi, roughly an hour by car. Airport shuttles run to Bodrum, where you can change to a dolmuş; taxis and transfers are also available.
İrfan’s tipSend me your flight time, and if you land late at night we’ll arrange a transfer together.
DirectionsArrival
From Bodrum–Milas Airport
The airport (BJV) is about 55 km from Kadıkalesi, roughly an hour by car.
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Tell İrfan your times
Send your flight and expected arrival time. Check-in is from 15:00; if you are arriving late at night, please let him know in advance.
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Taxi or transfer
The simplest way. Straight from the airport to the door in about an hour. Ask İrfan for a recommendation if you want to book ahead.
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Hire car
Car hire companies operate at the airport. Handy if you want to explore the peninsula, and parking on site is free.
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Shuttle and minibus
Take the Havaş or Muttaş airport shuttle to Bodrum bus station, then a dolmuş towards Turgutreis. İrfan will tell you which line to take; the stop is about 100 metres from the complex.
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Bags down, sea next
If your home is not ready yet, leave your luggage in the laundry room and walk the 500 metres down to Kadıkalesi.
Practical notes
- Dolmuş. The municipal minibus stops about 100 metres from the complex and reaches almost the whole peninsula. If you plan to use it a lot, ask İrfan about the routes.
- Car hire. Available at the airport, in Bodrum and in Turgutreis. Useful for the coves and villages; parking on site is free.
- Taxis. Good for short hops and late returns. Ask İrfan for a number he trusts.
- Market days. The big Saturday market in Turgutreis is the best known in the area. İrfan can tell you the days for the smaller village markets.
- On foot and by bike. Walking and cycling paths link Kadıkalesi and Turgutreis.
- A day in Bodrum. Bodrum town is about 22 km away. Give a day to the castle and its Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the Mausoleum site, the ancient theatre and the windmills. More on our Bodrum page.
Questions
Ask İrfan
The guide is free and always open. Before your stay or during it, one WhatsApp message is enough.